Construction Steps for D Best Family Stove
For a 24 cm Pot or Pan

Step 1. Base

Construct the base of the stove as per Figure 1 at a height of about 40 cm, which will give an overall height to the top of the stove of 82 cm. Use adobe (A), regular brick (RB), cinder block (CB) or some combination. Cinder block is used in the pictures. It should be strong enough to support the weight of the combustion chamber (CC) [see Step 2] and weight of the container and its contents. The width of the base must equal or exceed the width of the CC plus an adobe, regular brick, or cinder block on each side—about 60 cm. For a short chimney the height is about 47 cm and for a long chimney the height is 36 cm. The depth should be at least 55 cm. It is desirable to have a concrete base as shown in the pictures. Mortar the materials.

Set cinder blocks as base Mortar cinder block base Figure 1
Set cinder blocks as base Mortar cinder block base Figure 1

Step 2. Combustion Chamber

Construct the combustion chamber (CC) centered on top of the base using fire brick (7.6 x 11.5 x 23 cm) or insulated brick of the same dimensions. The first level or bottom, as shown in Figure 2, requires the use of a circular saw with a masonry blade to cut one of the bricks in half. In order for the first level to be the same width as the second level, cut 4.3 cm off the three shaded bricks. The second level, as shown in Figure 3, requires one brick to be cut at 14 cm and another to be cut in half (11.5 cm). Cut slots the width of the saw blade on each side of the CC at a height of 3.3 cm, a length of 16 cm, and a depth of 1 cm for the 22 gauge shelf that is 15 cm wide.
Figures 4 and 5 on the next page show the assembly of the completed CC using full sized bricks. The shaded brick in Figure 5 can be a regular brick, because there is very little heat at this location. The chimney in the picture on this page is a short chimney; however the one in the figures on the next page is longer. A longer chimney is more efficient, but costs more and requires a good mason to construct.

First Level Second Level Apply Mortar
Figure 2 Figure 3 Apply Mortar


Figure 4 Figure 5
Figure 4 Figure 5

Step 3. Flue Pipe and Complete Masonry

Build up the volume around the CC with A, RB, or CB as shown in the picture below. Note the regular brick on the back of the CC. Set the flue elbow so that its top is 2 cm above the CC and about 10 cm back from the CC as shown in Figure 6, Taper cement from the top of the A, RB, or CB and top of CC to the top and bottom of the flue pipe, respectively. The air flow will have a higher velocity if the construction is smooth. Cover the opening with a 15 x 38 x 0.3 (or greater) cm, steel plate that extends from the CC to at least 2 cm over the flue elbow (see picture of completed stove below).

Figure 6a Figure 6b Construct Flue
Figure 6a Figure 6b Construct Flue

Step 4. Rebar

Construct 1.3 cm rebar grate on the diagonal as per picture below with the junction of the two bars in the center of the CC. Reinforce butt weld at center with a short piece underneath. Mortar the rebar so the grate doesn’t move. See other picture below, which shows rebar, CC, and flue. The pot will sit on top of the rebar, which will make the distance above the CC 3.3 cm.

Set rebar grate Mortar cinder block base
Set rebar grate Rebar, combustion chamber & flue

Step 5. Pot and Pot Skirt

Construct the pot skirt (PS) with thin sheet metal to be larger than the pot size. For a 24 cm pot the diameter is 27.6 cm and the circumference is 87 cm. Overlap the PS by about 5 cm, which makes a total length of the PS to be 92 cm. Join with sheet metal screws. Notch (cut two slits and bend back) the PS at the rebar 3.3 x 1.5 cm so the PS will rest on top of the CC (see picture below). A big notch is made at the rear so the exhaust flows to the flue pipe. The height of the PS should be the unobstructed height of the pot (there may be handles) plus about 2 cm. The top of the PS will need to be bent 90° so the PS will rest against the pot and the exhaust goes out the flue pipe. Bending is accomplished by cutting slits every 2 cm at a length equal to the gap, which for a 24 cm pot is 1.8 cm. See Figure 7. The picture gives a good illustration of the height limit due to the pot handle, the cut out for the rebar, the crimping at the top of the PS, and the steel plate at the rear to provide a cover as the hot gases flow to the flue pipe.

Figure 7 Pot on finished Stove
Figure 7 Pot on finished Stove

Step 6. Pan

Remove the pot skirt to use the stove with a pan or sheet metal grille. The pan or grille rests on top of the grate and should be at least 30 cm in diameter. A pan skirt is placed between the bottom of the pan and the top of the CC. It has the same diameter as the PS; a width of 3.3 cm; and is notched on the top for the rebar and a big notch at the back so the hot gases flow to the flue.

Step 7. Completed Stove

Allow mortar to cure at least overnight and preferably two nights, then use stove as per the Users Guide. The home page shows a completed wood cook stove. With experience the stove can be completed in four hours.